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February 2008 Specialty Club
2004 Bodegas Lan, Rioja Edición Limitada
When you pick up this bottle, you know that this is a wine that
means business. Its' heft alone nearly warrants a bodybuilder´s biceps.
The wine itself though, while powerful, rich, and intense, carries its weight with
grace and finesse. Exceptional balance keeps the abundant fruit on the nose
from overpowering this impressive blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, and 5%
Graciano. (Mazuelo is the Rioja name for Carignan; Graciano is a Rioja grape
added for its aroma and flavor.) At $49.75, we were barely able to get enough
for the club. The fact that it was number 18 on a certain magazine´s list of
top 100 wines of 2007 didn´t help much towards availability. So enjoy this
limited treat. It´s drinking well now, or it could be cellared for a few
years. Pair it with stews, game, meat dishes in general, or cured cheeses.
2005 Domaine Bernard Gripa, Saint Péray, "Les
Figuiers"
Saint Péray is a small appellation in the northern
Rhône known more for, oddly enough, its sparkling wines. But the region
is beginning to gain a reputation as a source of excellent, still, white wines and
Bernard Gripa is recognized as one of the reasons behind this renaissance.
Like all of the whites in the region, this beautifully structured wine is made from
Marsanne and Roussanne, in this case from some of Gripa´s oldest vines. It
is soft and creamy, full of fresh peach notes, and balanced by excellent acidity and
minerality. Enjoy it now, or within the next five years, as an aperitif, or
paired with grilled fish, charcuterie, or white meat dishes. It is $39.75 and we
can probably get more.
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